Charcoal Shish Tawook with Sumac Onions

Method

1. Mix the paprika, allspice, cumin, coriander, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves to make a Lebanese seven-spice blend. Trim the thighs of fat and sinew and cut into 4 cm pieces. Combine the Greek yoghurt, most of the lemon juice, grated garlic, tomato paste, the spices, most of the salt and the olive oil, rub it thoroughly into the chicken and refrigerate for 8 h (overnight).

   Add in this stepBoneless, skinless chicken thighs 360 gGreek yoghurt 90 gLemon juice 1½ tbspGarlic cloves 3Tomato paste 2 tspPaprika 1 tspGround allspice ½ tspGround cumin ½ tspGround coriander ½ tspGround black pepper ½ tspGround cinnamon 1 pinchGround nutmeg 1 pinchGround cloves 1 pinchSalt 1⅛ tspExtra virgin olive oil 1½ tbsp

2. Make the toum the classic way: blend the de-germed garlic and salt to a fine paste in a food processor, then, with the motor running, drip in the oil a tablespoon at a time, very slowly, adding a little lemon juice and ice water alternately after each quarter of the oil. Keep emulsifying for 12 min. Patience is everything; it is ready when snow-white and thick enough for a spoon to stand up in it.

   Add in this stepGarlic cloves, for the toum 6Salt, for the toum ½ tspLemon juice, for the toum 2 tbspIce-cold water 2 tbspNeutral oil, for the toum 180 ml

3. Slice the red onion paper-thin, soak it in cold water for 5 minutes and squeeze dry. Add the sumac, half the chopped parsley and the remaining salt and rub with your fingers until it turns rosy.

   Add in this stepRed onion 1Sumac 1 tspFlat-leaf parsley 5 gSalt ¼ tsp

4. Light the charcoal and wait 25 min, until the coals are covered in white ash (charcoal (medium heat)). Thread the chicken loosely onto flat metal skewers or soaked bamboo skewers to make 4 skewers, and thread the whole tomatoes onto separate skewers.

   Add in this stepSmall tomatoes 2

   charcoal (medium heat)

5. Grill the chicken and tomato skewers for 12 min, turning every 3 minutes. Meanwhile melt the butter in a small pan with the remaining lemon juice and the rest of the parsley, keep it at the edge of the grill and brush it over the chicken twice in the last 4 minutes. The chicken is done when charred in places and at least 74 °C in the centre (thigh is juiciest at about 80 °C); take the tomatoes off when their skins split and they soften.

   Add in this stepButter 15 gLemon juice 1 tbspFlat-leaf parsley 5 g

6. Warm the pitas on the grill for 1 min, turning, until lightly marked.

   Add in this stepPita bread 2

7. Spread toum over the pitas and top with the chicken, grilled tomatoes and sumac onions. Serve with extra toum and pita.