Oven-Braised Short Rib and Porcini Ragù with Gremolata

Method

1. The day before, pat the ribs dry, season every side with the coarse salt and pepper, and set them on a rack in the fridge, uncovered, for at least 8 hours or overnight. The salt seasons the meat right through and the surface dries out, so it browns far better.

   Add in this stepCoarse sea salt (for dry-brining) 1 tspBlack pepper to taste

2. Take the ribs out 30 minutes before cooking and preheat the oven to 150 °C. Soak the porcini in the hot water for 20 min, then lift them out, squeeze and chop finely. Strain the soaking liquid through a sieve lined with paper towel to catch any grit, and keep it. Chop the onion, carrot and celery into 5 mm dice and slice the garlic.

   Add in this stepDried porcini mushrooms 10 gHot water (for soaking the porcini) 150 ml

   oven

3. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a 22 cm ovenproof cast-iron pot with a lid. Brown the ribs in a single layer on every side, bone side too, for 12 min, until dark brown. Work in two batches if needed and set them aside on a plate. Use long tongs, as the fat spits.

   Add in this stepExtra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbspBone-in beef short ribs (5–8 cm pieces) 700 g

   medium-high heat

4. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat, turn down to medium heat and fry the pancetta for 2 minutes to render it. Add the chopped vegetables and cook for 9 min; once soft and golden, add the garlic and chopped porcini for 1 minute, then the tomato paste for 2 minutes more, until it darkens.

   Add in this stepPancetta, finely diced 50 gOnion ½Carrot ½Celery stalk 1Garlic cloves (for the sauce) 2Tomato paste 1 tbsp

   medium heat

5. Pour in the wine, turn up to high heat and scrape up every bit of the brown crust on the bottom. Boil for 3 min, until only about a third is left and it looks syrupy.

   Add in this stepFull-bodied dry red wine 180 ml

   high heat

6. Crush the whole tomatoes in with your hands and add the strained porcini liquid, stock, bay and thyme, then return the ribs and their juices. As soon as it bubbles on medium-high heat, cover and slide the pot into the preheated oven for 2 h 45 min, turning the ribs once halfway. They are done when a bone pulls out cleanly. The handles will be very hot: always use oven gloves.

   Add in this stepCanned whole peeled tomatoes 400 gBeef stock 150 mlBay leaves 1Thyme sprigs 3

   medium-high heat→oven

7. Lift out the ribs and discard the bones and fat. Let the sauce sit for 5 minutes, then skim off the fat carefully. Pull the meat into bite-sized pieces, not too fine, return it to the pot and simmer uncovered on medium heat for 12 min until thick. Meanwhile, chop the parsley, lemon zest and garlic together very finely to make the gremolata.

   Add in this stepFlat-leaf parsley 8 gUnwaxed lemon (for zest) ½Garlic clove (for the gremolata) ½

   medium heat

8. Bring 3 L of water to a rolling boil on high heat, salt it and cook the pasta for 7 min, 1 minute less than the packet says. Save a cup of pasta water, drain, and add the pasta to the ragù. On low heat, toss vigorously for 1 min 30 sec with the cold butter, half the Parmigiano and splashes of pasta water until the sauce turns creamy and glossy. Serve topped with the rest of the cheese and the gremolata.

   Add in this stepSalt (for the pasta water) 2 tspPappardelle or rigatoni 200 gCold unsalted butter 15 gParmigiano Reggiano, finely grated 30 g

   high heat→low heat