Short Rib Ragù with Pappardelle
Bone-in beef short ribs braised for nearly three hours in red wine and tomato, then shredded into a rich, silky Italian ragù for wide ribbons of pasta.
Method
Take the ribs out of the fridge 20 minutes ahead, pat them very dry with paper towels and season every side with the salt and pepper. Finely chop the onion, carrot and celery into 5 mm pieces and thinly slice the garlic. This chopped vegetable base (soffritto) gives the sauce its sweetness and depth.
Add in this stepSalt (for the meat) 1 tspBlack pepper to taste
Heat the olive oil in a heavy 22 cm pot with a lid over medium-high heat. Add the ribs in a single layer without crowding and brown them for in total, about 2 minutes per side, until deep brown. Don't keep moving them. If they don't all fit, brown them in two batches. Lower the meat in away from you, as the fat spits, and set the browned ribs aside on a plate.
Add in this stepExtra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbspBone-in beef short ribs (5–8 cm pieces) 700 g
medium-high heatPour off the fat, leaving about 1 tablespoon in the pot. Turn to medium heat, add the chopped vegetables and cook for , stirring, until soft and lightly golden. Add the garlic for the last minute, then stir in the tomato paste and cook 1 minute more until it turns brick red.
Add in this stepOnion ½Carrot ½Celery stalk 1Garlic cloves 2Tomato paste 1 tbsp
medium heatPour in the wine, turn up to medium-high heat and scrape the brown bits off the bottom with a wooden spoon. Let it bubble for , until reduced by about half and the sharp smell of alcohol has gone.
Add in this stepDry red wine 150 ml
medium-high heatAdd the tomatoes, stock, bay leaves and rosemary, then return the ribs and any juices from the plate. The meat should be almost covered; add a little water if needed. Bring to a boil on medium-high heat, then turn down to low heat, set the lid slightly ajar and simmer gently for . Stir down to the bottom every 30 minutes and add a splash of water if it gets too thick. It is ready when the meat slides off the bone with a fork.
Add in this stepPassata or canned crushed tomatoes 400 gBeef stock (or water) 250 mlBay leaves 1Rosemary sprigs 1
medium-high heat→low heatLift the ribs onto a board and let them cool for 5 minutes. Discard the bones, tough gristle and lumps of fat, and shred the meat with two forks. Remove the bay leaves and rosemary stems and spoon off the fat floating on the sauce. Return the meat and simmer uncovered on medium heat for , until a spoon dragged across the bottom leaves a trail for a moment. Taste and add salt if needed.
medium heatBring 3 L of water to a rolling boil on high heat in a large pot, add the salt, then the pasta, and cook for (check the packet). Stir during the first minute so the ribbons don't stick. Scoop out a mugful of the starchy cooking water before draining.
Add in this stepSalt (for the pasta water) 2 tspPappardelle (or tagliatelle or rigatoni) 200 g
high heatTip the drained pasta straight into the ragù and toss on low heat for , adding pasta water a splash at a time, until the sauce clings to the pasta and looks glossy. Serve at once with plenty of grated Parmigiano.
Add in this stepParmigiano Reggiano, finely grated 30 g
low heat
Cook's tip
Deep browning and a long, gentle simmer are the whole secret: if the pot is bubbling hard rather than just trembling, turn it down. Ragù tastes even better the next day and keeps 3 days in the fridge or 2 months in the freezer.
Cooking it at camp
Make the ragù at home, cool it and pack it in a sealed container in the cooler. At camp, reheat it on the burner and just boil the pasta. Braising for 3 hours on site needs a windshield and plenty of fuel.