Dhaba-Style Double Tadka Dal with Coal Smoke
Highway-diner (dhaba) style: two dals simmered together, a deeply browned masala, a quick coal smoke and a second garlic tadka on top.
Method
Rinse both dals together 3 to 4 times until the water is almost clear, then soak in fresh water for 30 minutes. Finely chop the onion and tomato, grate the ginger and masala garlic, thinly slice the tadka garlic and slice the green chili.
Add in this stepToor dal (split pigeon peas) 80 gMasoor dal (red lentils) 20 g
Put the drained dal, the measured water and the turmeric in a 18 cm pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, about , skim off the foam and turn down to medium-low heat. Simmer with the lid ajar for , stirring now and then, until the dal has completely broken down. Add the salt and whisk into a creamy, flowing texture.
Add in this stepWater 700 mlGround turmeric ¼ tspSalt 0.6 tsp
high heat→medium-low heatMelt the ghee and half the butter in a 20 cm pan over medium heat. Sizzle the bay leaf and masala cumin for 20 seconds, then add the onion and fry for . Take it a shade darker than for everyday dal, to deep brown: that is where the dhaba sweetness comes from.
Add in this stepGhee (for the masala) 1½ tbspButter ½ tbspBay leaf 1Cumin seeds (for the masala) ½ tspOnion 100 g
medium heatAdd the ginger, garlic and green chili for 1 minute, then the ground coriander, chili powder, tomato and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat for , adding 1 tbsp of water whenever it catches, until the tomato looks glossy and jammy and the ghee separates.
Add in this stepFresh ginger 10 gGarlic cloves (for the masala) 4Hot green chili 1Ground coriander ¾ tspKashmiri chili powder 0.6 tspTomato 120 gSalt ⅛ tsp
medium heatTip all the masala into the dal pot and simmer together over medium-low heat for . Add the garam masala and crushed kasuri methi in the last minute, and remove the bay leaf.
Add in this stepGaram masala ¼ tspKasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves) ½ tsp
medium-low heatSmoke it (dhungar): hold the charcoal with tongs over a gas flame on high heat for , until it glows red and the edges turn grey. Float a small steel bowl in the middle of the dal, put the coal in it, pour the smoking ghee over the coal, and as soon as smoke rises, clamp on a tight lid for . Uncover and remove the bowl and coal.
Add in this stepLump charcoal (one piece, about 3 cm) 1Ghee (for smoking) ½ tsp
high heatSecond tadka: heat the tadka ghee in a 12 cm small pan over medium heat, add the cumin and, when it sizzles, fry the sliced garlic for until golden. Turn off the heat, add the dried chilies, asafoetida and a pinch of chili powder, and pour straight over the dal.
Add in this stepGhee (for the tadka) 1 tbspCumin seeds (for the tadka) ½ tspGarlic cloves (for the tadka) 3Dried red chilies 2Asafoetida (hing) 1 pinchKashmiri chili powder ⅛ tsp
medium heatFinish with the remaining knob of butter, the cilantro and the lemon juice. Serve with cumin rice or roti and some raw onion slices, just like at a dhaba.
Add in this stepButter ½ tbspChopped cilantro 2 tbspLemon juice 1½ tsp
Cook's tip
No gas flame? Skip the coal and add a pinch of smoked paprika to the second tadka for a similar smoky note. The masoor dal breaks down quickly and thickens the dal naturally, so it whisks creamy far more easily than toor dal alone.
Cooking it at camp
Coal smoking is actually easier at camp: just lift a glowing piece from the fire with tongs. Soak the dal at home, cook the masala and dal one after the other in a single pot, and make the tadka in a steel mug.