Double-Stock Khao Man Gai with Golden Schmaltz Rice

Method

1. Rinse the wings in cold water, then put them in a 22 cm pot with the water, ginger, smashed garlic, half the pandan and the white peppercorns and bring to the boil over high heat. Skim off all the foam as it rises, then turn down to low heat, half-cover and simmer for 40 min to make a clear, rich stock. Strain and discard the wings.

   Add in this stepChicken wings or backs (for the stock) 400 gWater 2,000 mlGinger (for the stock), sliced 25 gWhole garlic cloves (for the stock), smashed 4Pandan leaves 1White peppercorns, lightly crushed ½ tsp

   high heat→low heat

2. Dissolve the salt in the stock and bring it back to just below a simmer. Lower in the chicken legs and cook on medium-low heat, the surface barely trembling, for 8 min. Turn off the heat, cover and let the residual heat finish the job for 22 min. Check that the thickest part by the bone reaches 74 °C (clear juices), chill the legs in iced water for 10 minutes, then brush them lightly with sesame oil. Keep the stock warm.

   Add in this stepSalt 1½ tspBone-in chicken legs, skin on 550 gToasted sesame oil 1 tsp

   medium-low heat

3. Cut the chicken skin into 1 cm pieces and put them in a 18 cm frying pan with 2 tbsp water. Render slowly on medium-low heat for 10 min, until the fat runs clear and the skin is golden and crisp. Lift out the cracklings, sprinkle them with a little salt and keep the fat in the pan. Watch out for spitting fat.

   Add in this stepChicken skin and fat trimmings 50 g

   medium-low heat

4. Wash the rice until the water runs clear and drain for 10 minutes. Spoon 2–3 tbsp of the chicken fat into a pot over medium-low heat, fry the shallot and garlic until pale gold, then add the rice and stir for 3 min until the grains are opaque and evenly coated.

   Add in this stepShallot, minced 1Garlic (for the rice), minced 3Jasmine rice 180 g

   medium-low heat

5. Add 250 ml of warm stock and the rest of the pandan and bring to the boil over high heat. Stir once, cover, turn down to low heat and cook for 15 min. Turn off the heat, leave covered for 10 min, then fluff gently: every grain should be separate and glossy.

   Add in this stepPandan leaves 1

   high heat→low heat

6. Heat the oil in a small pan on low heat and gently fry the ginger and garlic until fragrant but not coloured. Add the tao jiao, light and dark soy sauce, palm sugar and vinegar and stir for 2 min until glossy. Take off the heat, let it cool, then stir in the chillies and lime juice. Cooking the sauce mellows the bean paste and helps it keep longer.

   Add in this stepVegetable oil (for the sauce) 1½ tbspGinger (for the sauce), finely minced 15 gGarlic (for the sauce), finely minced 2Thai fermented soybean paste (tao jiao) 2½ tbspLight soy sauce 1½ tspDark soy sauce 1 tspPalm sugar (or light brown sugar) 2 tspWhite vinegar 1½ tbspLime ½Bird's eye chillies, sliced 2

   low heat

7. Bring the remaining stock back to a simmer over medium heat, add the radish cut into 1 cm pieces and cook for 10 min until translucent. Season with salt and add a little coriander.

   Add in this stepDaikon radish or winter melon 120 gCoriander (cilantro) 1.5 g

   medium heat

8. Bone the chicken and slice it, skin on, into 1.5 cm pieces with a very sharp knife so the skin does not tear. Spoon the rice into bowls, scatter over the crisp skin, top with the chicken and add the cucumber and remaining coriander. Serve with the sauce and the soup.

   Add in this stepCucumber ½Coriander (cilantro) 3.5 g