Pineapple Cakes (Taiwanese Feng Li Su)

Method

1. Chop the pineapple very finely (or pulse it in a food processor, stopping before it turns to purée) and keep all the juice. Cook it in a wide non-stick pan (24 cm) over medium-high heat for 18 min, stirring often, until most of the juice has evaporated and the fibres look dry.

   Add in this stepFresh pineapple flesh (core removed) 500 g

   medium-high heat

2. Add the sugar and maltose, lower to medium-low heat and cook for 20 min, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom, until it becomes a thick golden-amber paste that leaves a clear line when you drag the spatula through. It splutters, so use a long spatula. Spread it on a plate and let it cool completely; it firms up as it cools.

   Add in this stepSugar 40 gMaltose (or golden syrup) 30 g

   medium-low heat

3. Beat the soft butter with the icing sugar and salt for 2 min until pale and creamy. Beat in the egg in two additions. Sift in the milk powder and flour and fold with a spatula just until a soft dough forms; do not knead. Wrap and chill for 20 min.

   Add in this stepUnsalted butter, softened 70 gIcing sugar 15 gSalt 1 pinchBeaten egg 20 gWhole milk powder 14 gPlain flour (or cake flour) 100 g

4. Preheat the oven to 170 °C and line a baking tray with baking paper. Divide the dough and the cooled filling each into 8 equal pieces (about 25 g dough and 20 g filling each) and roll the filling into balls; lightly oiled hands help.

   oven

5. Flatten a piece of dough into a 7 cm disc, set a filling ball in the centre and push the dough up around it with the curve between thumb and forefinger, turning as you go, until it closes. Pinch to seal and roll smooth. Put it in a rectangular pineapple-cake mould (about 4.5 × 3.5 cm) on the tray and press it flat with your fingers or the back of a spoon so it fills the corners. No moulds? Press each one into a neat 4 cm square with your palms.

6. Bake in the oven for 12 min, until the tops are light golden. Flip each cake over in its mould (use a spatula and an oven glove) and bake for 8 min more, until both sides are evenly golden.

   oven

7. Cool in the moulds for 10 minutes, then push the cakes out and cool completely on a rack. Store in an airtight box overnight: the crust mellows slightly and the flavours come together.