Tam Thai with Grilled Prawns
Street-vendor-level som tam: hand-shaved papaya, a melted tamarind and palm-sugar dressing, home-roasted peanuts and smoky grilled prawns.
Method
Hold the papaya in one hand and make close, lengthwise cuts into the flesh with a knife, then shave it off thinly at an angle; this Thai 'hack and slice' gives rougher strands that soak up dressing better than a peeler. Cut the carrot into strands of the same size and soak both in iced water for , then squeeze dry.
Add in this stepGreen papaya, peeled weight 300 gCarrot 60 g
Put the palm sugar, tamarind and fish sauce in a 14 cm small pan on low heat for , stirring, until the sugar has fully melted and it turns lightly syrupy, then take it off the heat and let it cool. Melt, don't boil, so the fish sauce stays fragrant; Thai vendors make their dressing base exactly like this.
Add in this stepPalm sugar 1½ tbspTamarind paste 1½ tspFish sauce 1½ tbsp
low heatRoast the raw peanuts in a 18 cm dry pan on medium-low heat for , shaking constantly, until the skins crack and they are deep golden and nutty; add the dried shrimp for the last minute, then tip out to cool. Roughly crush half the peanuts.
Add in this stepRaw shelled peanuts 2 tbspSmall dried shrimp 2 tbsp
medium-low heatPeel the prawns, leaving the tail and last segment on, slit the back and remove the dark vein. Pat dry and toss with the oil and salt. Heat a 24 cm grill pan on medium-high heat until it just starts to smoke and grill the prawns for , turning once. They are done when marked on both sides and pink and opaque all the way through.
Add in this stepLarge raw prawns, shell on 8Vegetable oil 1 tspSalt 1 pinch
medium-high heatPound the garlic and chilies roughly in the mortar for , then add the beans cut into 3 cm lengths and the halved tomatoes, tapping gently until the beans are bruised and the tomatoes release their juice.
Add in this stepGarlic cloves 2Bird's eye chilies 2Long beans (or green beans) 50 gCherry tomatoes 8
Pour in the cooled dressing and the lime juice, add the papaya, carrot and most of the peanuts and shrimp, and tap with the pestle while turning with a spoon for . Taste and balance with lime and fish sauce. Toss 3–4 servings in a large bowl.
Add in this stepLimes 1½
Pile the salad high on plates, top with the grilled prawns and scatter over the remaining peanuts. Serve straight away with cabbage wedges.
Add in this stepCabbage wedges (to serve) 2
Cook's tip
Make a double batch of dressing syrup; it keeps a week in the fridge. No grill pan? Use a very hot cast-iron pan, or skewer the prawns over charcoal, which is even better. Pull the prawns as soon as they change colour or they turn rubbery.
Cooking it at camp
Prawn skewers over charcoal bring the street-stall feel straight to the campsite. Make the dressing syrup and roast the peanuts at home, and keep the shredded papaya chilled. Store the raw prawns in the coldest part of the cooler and use them on day one.