Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)

Method

1. Peel the papaya, halve it and scrape out the white seeds with a spoon. Shred it into long, thin strands with a julienne peeler, or use the Thai way: score the flesh with closely spaced cuts, then shave it off thinly. Soak the strands in iced water for 10 min to make them crisp, then drain and squeeze dry. The milky sap under the skin can irritate sensitive skin, so wear gloves if needed.

   Add in this stepGreen (unripe) papaya, peeled weight 300 g

2. Toast the peanuts and dried shrimp in a 18 cm dry pan on medium-low heat for 3 min, shaking, until fragrant and the peanuts are lightly golden. Tip onto a plate to cool.

   Add in this stepRoasted unsalted peanuts 2 tbspSmall dried shrimp 2 tbsp

   medium-low heat

3. In a mortar (the bigger the better), pound the garlic and chilies for 1 min to a rough paste; start with fewer chilies, you can add more later. Add the palm sugar and pound until it dissolves, then stir in the tamarind, fish sauce and lime juice. Drop in one squeezed lime shell too, for aroma.

   Add in this stepGarlic cloves 2Bird's eye chilies 2Palm sugar (or light brown sugar) 1½ tbspTamarind paste 1 tspFish sauce 1½ tbspLimes 1½

4. Cut the beans into 3 cm lengths and halve the tomatoes. Add them to the mortar and tap gently with the pestle for 30 sec, just enough to bruise the beans and release the tomato juices.

   Add in this stepLong beans (or green beans) 50 gCherry tomatoes 8

5. Add the papaya and most of the peanuts and shrimp (save a little for the top). Tap lightly with the pestle in one hand while turning everything from the bottom with a spoon in the other for 1 min 30 sec, until the papaya softens slightly and is well coated. Tap, don't mash, or it goes limp. If your mortar is small (3–4 servings), tip everything into a large bowl and toss the same way.

6. Taste: it should be sour, salty, sweet and hot all at once, so balance with lime, fish sauce or sugar. Pile onto a plate, scatter with the reserved peanuts and shrimp, and serve immediately with cabbage wedges. Sticky rice and grilled chicken make it a classic Thai meal.

   Add in this stepCabbage wedges (to serve) 2